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It
is easy to be overwhelmed by the seemingly uncountable monuments
in the Kathmandu Durbar Square. The house of the Living Goddess
( Kumari Ghar ), the ferocious Kal Bhairab, the red monkey god,
and hundreds of erotic carvings are a few examples of the sights
at the Square! The buildings here are the greatest achievements
of the Malla dynasty, and they resulted from the great rivalry
between the three palaces of Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur.
The Valley was divided among the children of Yaksya Malla. For
visitors today, and for the Nepalese, it was serendipitous that
they, and later their off springs, began an artistic warfare trying
to outdo each other in splendid constructions. Kings copied everything
their neighbours built in an even grander style. A visitor who
wanders around the Square will see a round temple in the pagoda
architectural style, the temple of Goddess Taleju (legend has
it that She played dice with King Jaya Prakash Malla), and an
image of Shiva and Parbati sitting together among the many monuments.

The Square teems with colorful life. Vendors sell vegetables,
curios, flutes, and other crafts around the Kastamandap rest house.
This rest house is said to have been built with the wood of a
single tree and is the source from which the Kathmandu Valley
got its name. Nearby are great drums, which were beaten to announce
royal decrees. All woodcarvings, statues, and architecture in
this area are exceptionally fine, and Kathmandu Durbar Square
is among the most important sights for travellers to see. The
complex also houses the Tribhuvan Museum that carries the mementos
of different Shah Kings.


Pashupatinath is the holiest Hindu pilgrimage destination in Nepal.
There are linga images of Shiva along with statues, shrines, and
temples dedicated to other deities in the complex. A temple dedicated
to Shiva existed at this site in AD 879. However, King Bhupatindra
Malla built the present temple in 1697. A gold-plated roof, silver
doors, and woodcarvings of the finest quality decorate the pagoda
construction. Guheswari Temple, restored in AD 1653, represents
the female "force". It is dedicated to Satidevi, Shiva's
first wife, who gave up her life in the flames of her father's
fire ritual.
A
circuit of the Pashupati area takes visitors past a sixth-century
statue of the Buddha, an eighth-century statue of Brahma the creator
and numerous other temples. Some other places to visit are Rajrajeswari
Temple, built in 1407, Kailas with lingas more than 1,400 years
old, Gorakhnath temple, and the courtyard of Biswarup. There are
rows of Shiva shrines and Hindu pilgrims from all over South Asia
offer worship to Shiva, the Lord of Destruction.
The Bagmati River flows close by and the Arya Ghat cremation
grounds are here. We strongly advise photographers not to take
photos of cremations and of bereaved families. Sadhus, sages who
follow the lifestyle of Shiva, may be seen covered in ashes and
loincloths. They ask for money in case you want to take their
photos. Those of Hindu faith only may enter the main Pashupatinath
courtyard.

The
history of the Valley, according to the legends, begins with Swayambhu,
or the "the self-existent". In times uncharted by history,
Boddhisatwa Manjusri came across a beautiful lake during his travel.
He saw a lotus that emitted brilliant light at the lake's center,
so he cut a gorge in a southern hill and drained the waters to
worship the lotus. Men settled on the bed of the lake and called
it the Kathmandu Valley. From then on, the hilltop of the self-existent
Lord has been a holy place.
Swayambhu's light was covered in time because few could bear
its intensity. By the thirteenth century, after many layers were
added to the original structure that enveloped the Lord's power,
a dome-like shape had been acquired. The stupas central mast was
damaged and replaced at that time. Peripheral sources of power
were discovered on the hilltop as well and stupas, temples, and
rest houses were built to honour them. Images of important deities,
both Buddhist and Hindu, were also installed. Today, age-old statues
and shrines dot the stupa complex.
Behind
the hilltop is a temple dedicated to Manjusri or Saraswati - the
goddess of learning.
Swayambhu is, perhaps, the best place to observe the religious
harmony in Nepal. The stupa is among the most ancient in this
part of the world, and its worshippers are diverse from Newar
nuns, Tibetan monks, and Brahmin priests to lay Buddhists and
Hindus. The largest image of the Sakyamuni Buddha in Nepal is
in a monastery next to the stupa. Other monasteries here have
huge prayer wheels; fine Buddhist paintings, and special butter
lamps, which may be lit after presenting monetary offerings.
Swayambhu is a major landmark of the Valley and looks like a
beacon below the Nagarjun hill. It provides an excellent view
of the Kathmandu Valley. Devotees have climbed the steps on the
eastern side for centuries. Statues of the Buddha, mini stupas,
monasteries and monkeys make the climb to Swayambhu - which is
fairly steep - worthwhile. But for someone who is pressed for
time, the western road allows you to get off your transport almost
at the base of the stupa.

Bouddhanath
is among the largest stupas in South Asia, and it has become the
focal point of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal. The white mound looms
thirty-six meters overhead. The stupa is located on the ancient
trade route to Tibet, and Tibetan merchants rested and offered
prayers here for many centuries. When refugees entered Nepal from
Tibet in the 1950s, many of them decided to live around Bouddhanath.
They established many gompas, and the "Little Tibet"
of Nepal was born. This "Little Tibet" is still the
best place in the Valley to observe Tibetan lifestyle. Monks walk
about in maroon robes. Tibetans walk with prayer wheels in their
hands, and the rituals of prostration are presented to the Buddha
as worshippers circumambulate the stupa on their hands and knees,
bowing down to their lord.
Many people believe that Bouddhanath was constructed in the fifth
century, but definite proof is lacking. The stupa is said to entomb
the remains of a Kasyap sage who is venerable both to Buddhists
and Hindus. One legend has it that a woman requested a Valley
king for the donation of ground required to build a stupa. She
said she needed land covered by one buffalo's skin and the King
granted her wish. She cut a buffalo skin into thin strips and
circled off a fairly large clearing. The king had no choice but
to give her the land.
The Bouddha area is a visual feast. Colorful thangkas, Tibetan
jewellery, hand-woven carpets, masks, and khukuri knives are sold
in the surrounding stalls. Smaller stupas are located at the base.
Gompa monasteries, curio shops, and restaurants surround Bouddhanath.
Conveniently situated restaurants with rooftop patios provide
good food and excellent views of Bouddhanath.


The temple is situated at Machhendra Bahal near Indrachowk. This
two storeyed temple was built by Yaksha Malla in 1500 AD. The
chariot festival of white Mahchendranath (the god of mercy) is
annually celebrated in Kathmandu Valley. The traditional music
is always played in the evening at this temple, which is also
open to westerners.


Thamel area has recently emerged as the most popular tourist area
of Kathmandu. Thamel is a 15 to 20 minute walk from the center
of Kathmandu. Thamel has clean narrow streets full of mushrooming
lodges, hotels for budget travellers. Restaurants, bars and other
tourists oriented shops can be seen bustling with activities.

This whole square is a cluster of fine pagoda temples and stone
statues; it is at the same time the business hub of the city.
At every step one comes across a piece of art or an image of a
deity, testifying to the consummate skill of Patan's anonymous
artists. The ancient palace of the Malla kings and the stone baths
associated with various legends and episodes of history are especially
interesting to visitors. The stone temple of Lord Krishna and
the Royal Bath (Tushahity) with its intricate stone and bronze
carvings are two other masterpieces in the same vicinity.
This three-storey golden pagoda of Lokeshwar in Patan was built
in the twelfth century A. D. by King Bhaskar Varma. Located in
the courtyard of Kwabahal, this temple is in a class of its own.
A golden image of Lord Buddha and a big prayer wheel can be seen
on the pedestal of the upper part of the Car while intricate decorative
patterns on its outer walls add charm to the mellow richness of
the shrine.

The temple of Mahabouddha is a masterpiece of terra cotta. Like
the Krishna Mandir, it reveals an artistic tradition that evolved
outside of Nepal and shows how native Nepalese craftsmen have
been able to do justice to an unfamiliar art form. This temple
was built by Abhaya Raj, a priest of Patan and is sometimes referred
to as the temple of a million Buddha because every single brick
bears a small image of Buddha. There is an astonishing total of
nine thousand bricks. It was leveled to the ground in the great
earthquake of 1933 but was rebuilt exactly to the original specifications,
proving that the temple craft is still one of the living arts
of Nepal.

The Jagat Narayan temple is a tall shikhara-style temple consecrated
to Lord Vishnu. The temple is built of red bricks on the bank
of the Bagmati at Sankhamul and enshrines many stone images. The
fine metal statue of Garuda placed on a stone monolith is quite
eye-catching and is accompanied by similarly placed images of
Ganesh and Hanuman.

The temple of Lord Krishna holds a commanding position in Patan's
Palace complex. Though its style is not wholly native, it is one
of the most perfect specimens of Nepalese temple craft. The three-storey
stone temple continues to elicit high praise from lovers of art
and beauty. It was built by King Siddhi Narasingha Malla in the
sixteenth century A. D. Important scenes from the Mahabharata
and Ramayana epics have been carved in bas-relief. The minute
details of this work clearly show the high level that the art
of stone carving attained in the sixteenth century.

The temple of Red Machhendranath is another center of attraction
in Patan. The temple lies in the middle of a wide, spacious quadrangle
just at the outer rim of the market place. A fine clay image of
Red Machhendranath Avalokiteshwar is housed here for six months
every year, after which it is taken round the city of Patan in
a colourful chariot during the festival beginning in April-May
and lasting sometimes for several months.


Bhaktapur Durbar Square is a conglomeration of pagoda and shikhara-style
temples grouped around a fifty-five window palace of brick and
wood. The square is one of the most charming architectural showpieces
of the Valley as it highlights the ancient arts of Nepal. The
golden effigies of kings perched on the top of stone monoliths,
the guardian deities looking out from their sanctuaries, the woodcarvings
in every place-struts, lintels, uprights, tympanums, gateways
and windows-all seem to form a well-orchestrated symphony. The
main items of interest in the Durbar Square are:
Dating as far back as 1696 A.D., this gate is guarded on either
side by two huge statues of lions. Alongside, there are two stone
images of Bhairab (the dreadful aspect of Shiva) and Ugrachandi
(the consort of Shiva in her fearful manifestation).

The Golden Gate is said to be the most beautiful and richly moulded
specimen of its kind in the entire world. The door is surmounted
by a figure of the goddess Kali and Garuda (the mythical man-bird)
and attended by two heavenly nymphs. It is also embellished with
mythical creatures of marvellous intricacy. In the words of Percy
Brown, an eminent English art critic and historian, the Golden
Gate is the most lovely piece of art in the whole Kingdom: it
is placed like a jewel, flashing innumerable facets in the handsome
setting of its surroundings. The gate was erected by King Ranjit
Malla and is the entrance of the main courtyard of the Palace
of Fifty-five Windows.

This manificent palace was built during the reign of King Yakshya
Malla in A.D. 1427 and was subsequently remodeled by King Bhupatindra
Malla in the seventeenth century. Among the brick walls with their
gracious setting and sculptural design, is a balcony with Fifty-five
Windows, considered to be a unique masterpiece of woodcarving.

The Art Gallery contains ancient paintings belonging to the Hindu
and Buddhist traditions of various periods and descriptions. This
gallery is open everyday except Tuesday.

This statue showing King Bhupatindra Malla in the act of worship
is set on a column facing the palace. Of the square's many statues,
this is considered to be the most magnificent.

The temple of Dattatraya is as old as the Palace of Fifty-five
Windows. Consecrated by King Yakshya Malla in 1427 A. D., this
temple, according to popular belief, was built out of the trunk
of a single tree. It was subsequently repaired and renovated by
King Vishwa Malla in 1458 A. D. Just beside the temple is a monastery
(Math) with exquisite carvings.

This five-storey pagoda was built by King Bhupatindra Malla in
1702 A. D. It stands on five terraces on each of which squat a
pair of figures: two famous wrestlers, two elephants, two lions,
two griffins and Baghini and Singhini -the tiger and the lion
goddesses. Each pair of figures is considered ten times stronger
than the ones immediately below, while the lowest pair, the two
strong men Jaya Malla and Phatta Malla, was reputedly ten times
stronger than any other men. This is one of the tallest pagoda
temples in Kathmandu Valley and is famous for its massive structure
and subtle workmanship.

This is another pagoda style temple dedicated to Lord Bhairab,
the dreadful aspect of Shiva. It stands a short distance away
from the temple of Nyatapola and was originally constructed by
King Jagat Jyoti Malla on a modest scale. It was later remodeled
by King Bhupatindra Malla, a zealous lover of the arts, into what
is now a three-storey temple.


Narayan, or Vishnu, is the preserver of creation to Hindus. His
temple near Changu village is often described as the most ancient
temple in the Kathmandu Valley. A fifth century stone inscription,
the oldest to be discovered in Nepal, is located in the temple
compound and it tells of the victorious King Mandev. The temple
now covers sixteen hundred years of Nepalese art history. The
temple, built around the third century, is decorated by some of
the best samples of stone, wood, and metal craft in the Valley.
In the words of one tourist guide, "When you look upon Changu
Narayan, you observe the complete cultural development of the
Valley."
On the struts of the two-tiered Changu Narayan Temple, are the
ten incarnations in which Narayan destroyed evildoers. A sixth-century
stone statue shows the cosmic form of Vishnu, while another statue
recalls his dwarf incarnation when he crushed the evil king Bali.
Vishnu as Narasingha disemboweling a demon is particularly stunning.
The western bronze doors sparkle in the evening sunlight, dragons
decorate the bells, and handsome devas stare from the walls. Garuda,
half man and half bird, is the steed of Vishnu, and his life-sized
statue kneels before the temple. The favourite of many tourists
is the statue of Vishnu sitting astride his steed.

Nagarkot,
located 32 kilometers east of Kathmandu, is one of the most scenic
spots in Bhaktapur district and is renowned for its spectacular
sunrise view of the Himalaya when the weather is clear. Visitors
often travel to Nagarkot from Kathmandu to spend the night so
that they can be there for the breathtaking sunrise. Nagarkot
has become famous as one of the best spots to view Mount Everest
as well as other snow-topped peaks of the Himalayan range of eastern
Nepal. It also offers an excellent view of the Indrawati river
valley to the east. With an elevation of 2,195 meters, Nagarkot
also offers a panoramic view of the Valley and is described by
visitors as a place whose beauty endures year round.
Many visitors prefer to visit Nagarkot in the spring when surrounding
valleys break out in a rich kaleidoscope of different coloured
flowers. The flowers are beautiful against the serene backdrop
of the snow-covered mountains. Ever popular among the tourists
are the short treks and picnics, which Nagarkot offers. Treks
from Nagarkot are unique and delightful. For anyone who wants
to have an adventure without exerting much effort, a hike to Nagarkot's
surrounding areas would be a good option. One can traverse short
distances on trekking trails and come close to nature's wonders
such as the outer of verdant forests, flower-covered meadows and
unusual rock formations.