If Kathmandu is the cultural hub of Nepal, Pokhara is its center
of adventure. An enchanting city nestled in a tranquil valley;
it is the starting point for many of Nepal's most popular trekking
and rafting destinations. The atmosphere on the shore of Phewa
Lake is one of excited vitality as hipster backpackers crowd the
many bars and restaurants exchanging recommendations on guest
houses and viewpoints, both by the lake and above the clouds.
Pokhara is a place of remarkable natural beauty. The serenity
of Phewa Lake and the magnificence of the fishtailed summit of
Machhapuchhre (6,977 m) rising behind it create an ambience of
peace and magic. At an elevation lower than Kathmandu, it has
a much more tropical feel to it, a fact well appreciated by the
beautiful diversity of flowers which prosper in its environs.
Indeed, the valley surrounding Pokhara is home to thick forests,
gushing rivers, emerald lakes, and of course, the world famous
views of the Himalaya.
The powerful rule of the old kings of Kathmandu, the Lichhavis
and the Mallas, held sway over this valley for some time. As these
dynasties fell prey to their own troubles, Pokhara Valley and
the surrounding hills disintegrated into small kingdoms, frequently
at war with each other. These were called the Chaubise Rajya or
the Twenty-four Kingdoms. It was among these that Kulmandan Shah
established his kingdom. His descendant Drabya Shah was the first
to establish Gorkha, home of the legendary Gurkha warriors.
Finally, Pokhara is part of a once vibrant trade route extending
between India and Tibet. To this day, mule trains can be seen
camped on the outskirts of the town, bringing goods to trade from
remote regions of the Himalaya. This is the land of the Magars
and Gurungs, hardworking farmers and valorous warriors who have
earned worldwide fame as Gurkha soldiers. The Thakalis, another
important ethnic group here, are known for their entrepreneurship.
Clearly the most stunning of Pokhara's sights is the spectacular
panorama of the Annapurna range, which forms its backdrop. Stretching
from east to west, the Annapurna massif includes Annapurna 1 to
IV and Annapurna South. Although the highest among them is Annapurna
1 (8,091 m), it is Machhapuchhre, which dominates all others in
this neighbourhood. Boastfully levitating in the skyline, the
fishtailed pinnacle is the archetypal snow-capped, needlepointed
mountain. If you want to see the mountains from close up, Everest
Air offers a mountain flight from Pokhara that takes you on an
aerial sightseeing tour of the western Himalaya.
Phewa Lake, the second largest lake in the Kingdom, is the center
of all attraction in Pokhara. It is the largest and most enchanting
of the three lakes that add to the resplendence of Pokhara. Here,
one can sail or row a hired boat across to the water or visit
the island temple in its middle. The eastern shore, popularly
known as lakeside or Baidam, is the favorite home base for travellers
and is where most of the hotels, restaurants and handicraft shops
are located.
The Barahi temple is the most important monument in Pokhara. Built
almost in the center of Phewa Lake, this two-storyed pagoda is
dedicated to the boar manifestation of' Ajima, the protesters
deity representing- the female force Shakti. Devotees can be seen,
especially on Saturdays, carrying male animals and fowl across
the lake to be sacrificed to the deity.
Another of Pokhara’s natural wonder that unfailingly interests
visitors is the Seti Gandaki River. Flowing right through the
city, the boisterous river runs completely underground at places.
Amazingly, at certain points the river appears hardly two meters
wide. But its depth is quite beyond imagination over 20 meters!
Mahendra Pul, a small bridge near the old Mission Hospital, provides
a perfect view of the river's dreadful rush and the deep gorge
made by its powerful flow.
Locally known as the Patale Chhango (Hell's Fall). Devi's Fall
(also known as Devin's and David's) is a lovely waterfall lying
about two km southwest of the Pokhara airport on the Siddhartha
Highway. Legend has it that a trekker (Devin, David.) was washed
away by the Pardi Khola and mysteriously disappeared down into
an underground passage beneath the fall.
Another of nature's wonders in Pokhara is the Mahendra Gupha.
This large limestone cave is locally known as the House of Bats,
an apt name for it. A two-hour walk to the north of Pokhara, it
is best to bring your own torch to see the stalactites and stalagmites,
as well as the local winged residents.
Pokhara's traditional bazaar is colorful and so are its ethnically
diverse traders. In its temples and monuments can be seen ties
to the Newar architecture of the Kathmandu Valley. Located about
four km from Lakeside, the market's original charm is alive and
well. This area strewn with shops selling commodities ranging
from edibles and cloth to cosmetics and gold is a pleasant and
shady spot to stroll around.
The old bazaar is also home to one of Pokhara's most important
shrines'. Locally called the Bindhyabasini Mandir, this white
dome-like structure dominates a spacious stone-paved courtyard
built atop a shady hillock. It is dedicated to Goddess Bhagwati,
yet another manifestation of Shakti. The park-like grounds offer
a fine picnic area, and on Saturdays and Tuesdays when devotees
flock there to offer sacrifices, it takes on a festive local flavour.
The Pokhara Museum, located between the bus stop and Mahendra
Pul, reflects the ethnic mosaic of western Nepal. The lifestyles
and history of ethnic groups such as Gurungs, Thakalis and Tharus
are attractively displayed through models, photographs and artifacts.
One major attraction is a display highlighting the newly discovered
remains of an 8000-year-old settlement in Mustang. Open daily,
except Tuesdays and holidays, from 10 am to 5 pm. Entrance fee
is Rs.10 (tel: 20413).
The Annapurna Regional Museum, also known as the Natural History
Museum, is another interesting visit in Pokhara. Run by the Annapurna
Conservation Area Project (ACAP), the museum has an exceptional
collection of butterflies, insects, birds and models of wildlife
found in the area. Located at Prithvi Narayan Campus east of the
old bazaar, it is open daily except Saturdays and holidays from
9 am to 5 pm. Entrance is free (tel: 21102).
Pokhara is the starting and/or finishing point for some of the
most popular treks including the Annapurna Circuit and the Jomsom
Trek. It also offers a number of short treks for those who cannot
opt for long, challenging ones. The most popular destination among
them is Sarangkot (1592 m), a former Kaski fort lying atop a hill
to the west of Pokhara. The panoramic view of the Himalaya seen
from this point is superb. Kahundanda, Naudanda, Ghandrung, Ghorepani,
and Ghalchok are other favorite destinations around Pokhara.
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